Update September 2, 2018. It all starts with “Hi”
We have written many times about the cruising lifestyle in letters and updates to friends and guests. However, until a person actually makes the commitment to go cruising, it is difficult to put in words the experiences and constant flow of unpredictable treasured memories that develop with each day. The magical part is that it just keeps repeating and unfolding like the pages of a book you just can’t put down…except this isn’t fiction, it’s actually happening. Our free day to explore on Graciosa was a good example of the magic of the cruising lifestyle. But first some back ground to the day…
The components that would make this day so special actually started coming together over 10 days earlier, though none of it was planned, or even contemplated at the time.
The first component occurred as we were arriving in Velos on the Island of Sao Jorge to meet my Aussie trans Atlantic friends, David and Mary. As we approached their boat Adventurous, we had a chance introduction to a Norwegian couple that were sharing an evening wine and cheese with them. It was a quick 30 second “Hi, we are Diane and Rod” and they replied their names were “Mona and Arno” as they started swimming back to their boat Vilde before it got dark.
The next day, after a full day exploring Sao Jorge hiking with David and Mary, we rowed over to Vilde and had a brief chat with Mona and Arno. Vilde is their beautiful 40’ wooden boat and we quickly learned they have done some adventurous sailing. Over the past 20 years they have sailed around the Atlantic via the Azores and Caribbean to the USA, Eastern Canada, Greenland, Iceland, The Faro Islands, the Shetlands, Scotland, Ireland, Norway and the list goes on. I knew instantly I would really enjoy spending some time with them. Hopefully, our paths would cross again, but they were off to climb to the 2351m summit of the island of Pico right away. We were staying put for 2 more days with David and Mary before heading to Faial – rats! Another quick greeting of passing cruisers. Oh! well.
Our last full day with David and Mary was a scooter and hiking tour of eastern Sao Jorge. A visit to the famous cheese factories, a beautiful ocean side hike and about 80 km’s of masquerading as “geriatric hell’s angel’s on scooters” as we took in the beauty of Sao Jorge. Our farewell to David and Mary would be breakfast on Oh! the following morning. They have a pretty packed schedule and need to keep heading east to the Mediterranean. It would likely be our last time together for several years. To send them off we planned for one last hearty breakfast on Oh! before they departed at mid day for an overnight passage to the island of Terceira. It was a sad departure since we had become good friends over the past 7 weeks.
I first met them in Bermuda, only hours before they set out across the Atlantic. It started with ”Hi, I am Rod. Did you sail that catamaran all the way from Australia?”. There is a lot to the answer to that question, but we quickly became friends and using our iridiumGo! systems enjoyed an impromptu race across the Atlantic while texting each other multiple times per day. We had many great LOL texts of our mutual adventures. We connected again on arrival in Lejas on the island of Flores and then spent six days hiking and enjoying that beautiful island as well as the island of Corvo before David and Mary sailed on to Horta.
The second component of our day on Grascioso occurred late in the afternoon on the day David and Mary departed from Velos on Sao Jorge island. We had been doing some paper work and dealing with stuff from home all afternoon and needed some exercise. So we decided to go for a hike around the waterfront to the local cinder cone and natural area at Velos. It was getting late so we didn’t have much time. As we rowed into the marina we passed a beautiful all wood, all varnished double ended sail boat from Finland. It was like a work of art, absolutely perfect. It clearly made a lasting impression on us.
The walk thru the small town of Velos was beautiful. Azorean’s love the sea and they have created natural swimming pools among the rocky outcrops along the coast wherever they can. These include change areas that are often just a hollow cut into the cliffs with a door, as well as an outdoor rinsing shower. We planned to enjoy a swim after our hike at one of them.
About halfway up the cinder cone, we said “hi” to a man in bare feet coming down the sand and cinder gravel path. The friendly greeting encouraged him to stop and he told us we “have to experience the silence of the collapsed crater. Make sure you go down inside to experience the silence, don’t just go to the rim”. He was fit, about our age and had a Scandinavian accent. I asked if he was on one of the boats…and he replied he was on a wooden boat in the marina. That led to a brief introduction with “Jan”, a discussion about his incredible boat and an invitation to come see it. The whole encounter was over in about 2-3 minutes and we were off to continue our walk. The views from the cinder cone rim were spectacular, with jaw dropping sights down sheer cliffs several hundred meters high, to the clear blue sea bathed in the warm glow of the evening sun. By the time we returned, had our swim and walked back to the marina, it was well after dark and too late to visit Jan.
The next day we caught up to Jan to see his boat. It is 74 years old and looks like it was built yesterday. A working “work of art” and testament to his boat building skills. It turns out Jan owns the oldest wooden boat yard in Finland and builds wooden boats for a living. He acquired this one from its original owners who had sailed it extensively and wanted it to go to someone who could properly care for it. Jan then spent 2 years refurbishing and repairing it. He changed the engine to an electric drive and fitted it out with all new running tackle, standing rigging, canvas, new sails and much more. His old boat was not only “74 years new” it was also “green”. Jan had decided many years ago he was done with burning hydrocarbons. His only concession is his cooking stove and traditional lamp. Otherwise he cycles, walks, or sails everywhere. Our chat with this kind and fascinating man was brief and we parted hoping to see him again. The next morning when we rowed into the marina, Jan’s boat was gone. He had left before dawn.
Time in the Azores is a dichotomy, in one sense the islands have stood still in time, yet they are also racing to modernize and when you are visiting here, time seems to disappear way too fast. I had originally planned to spend three weeks exploring all nine islands of the Azores and had already been here for 5 weeks and seen only 4 islands. It was time to move on and we headed back to Faial to paint our mural on it’s famous wall at Horta, explore that island and check out the regulations regarding running our cruising adventures here next season.
To our surprise we were greeted at the marina by Mona and Arno with big smiles and open arms. Later that same evening we had a brief chat with a Swiss couple who were enjoying an evening stroll along the quay. Lisa and Schön, were planning to stay all winter in the Azores and had sailed extensively in the Madeira and Canary Islands – so since our evening was already committed, we invited them for breakfast the next morning to chat about the next Islands in our cruising plans.
The evening was spent at dinner with Mona and Arno at the Genuino restaurant for a “Fado” ( an evening of traditional songs and dinner accompanied by several singers, a guitar and mandolin). The restaurant is named after Genuino, the owner. He has sailed solo around the world twice taking the traditional routes around both of the southern Capes. At the time in the early 1990’s, he was one of only 9 solo sailors to have rounded Cape Horn. His restaurant is filled with mementos of his trips and his book. It was a great evening. The surprise was to find out late in the evening that our Norwegian friends Arno and Mona were good friends with our breakfast guests for the next morning, Lisa and Schön.
The next five days flew by hiking, swimming, exploring the islands and enjoying wine and cheese with a growing list of fascinating international friends and getting lots of great tips on the best places to visit.. We also managed to get our mural done so that we would depart Horta with “good luck”.
The next Island on our list was Graciosa and a short weather window opened up that would make it possible to anchor there for 2-4 days. There is a good Harbour at Praia, but it is pretty small and very full of local boats. There isn’t much room for a catamaran like Oh!, so we had to time our visit when the weather would be favourable to anchor outside the small harbour. Our new friends from Norway decided to join us, so Vilde and Oh! enjoyed a very comfortable down wind 40 nmi. run to Graciosa. But it wasn’t a race! Ugh yah. As it turned out, 29 ton Vilde matched 7 ton Oh! “knot for knot” with her large gaff rig main and code zero head sail, against Oh!’s 130% Genoa and furled main.
Our early Thursday evening arrival left time for a swim then wine and a light dinner together to discuss plans. The weather was forecast to be rain so it was decided Friday was a boat day. Sunday would be our free day and what a day it was!
The day started out with a quick swim and breakfast then off to find a taxi for and island tour. Our driver Servo (Roy to us) was from Graciosa, but had spent 20 years in Canada and the USA, which is very common for Azorean’s. His English was impeccable which was Mona’s only requirement. It is wonderful to be able to use English as a common language, but also embarrassing at how mono-lingual I am. I try hard to use my limited French but often in an international mix of people, it is everyone else who defaults to English, even amongst themselves so Diane and I are not left out. The cruising community is very gracious. Roy started out driving us around to the typical tourist stops on our route, but after a short time we all quickly became friends and the typical tour became an extended welcoming to his Island.
Over the course of our day we visited view points, cafe’s, the islands well known spa and healing center, walked deep down into the Furna do Enxofre (a rare volcanic cavern and lake), had a wonderful out door lunch from a park cafe and wine vendor, and impromptu wine tasting. Graciosa, like all the Azores islands we had been to was stunningly beautiful. Flowers, woods, meadows, volcanic cinder cones, dramatic cliffs and some of the clearest blue waters we have seen.
The topography and foliage, dotted with traditional lava stone and white plaster buildings, pasture walls covered in flowers and restored red and white windmills create beautiful vistas at every turn.
We sampled traditional Queijadas da Graciosa (sweet tarts) with a Galaou (coffee latte), freshly picked red grapes waiting to be crushed by foot before being pressed to extract the juice for wine, sampled the wine from last years harvest of those same grapes, visited the historical museum and arrived back at Praia with plenty of time for an evening swim.
The day was fabulous. Great friends wonderful experiences and surprise events all day long – but wait there’s more…
At the Harbour we met up again with Jan and invited Jan, Mona and Arno to finish our day with a wine and flat bread pizza dinner on Oh!. Let the magic begin…
After a wonderful swim and shower off the sugar scoops at the back if Oh!, I showed Diane the secret recipe for making flat bread pizza that David and Mary from Adventurous had shared with me. By the time the others arrived we had 5 flat breads ready to go plus all the fix-in’s. It quickly evolved into a custom build your own pizza and salad evening of Azores wine, beer and Diane’s apple crumble and yogurt, to top it off.
Then to our surprise, Jan announced that he had brought a special instrument he would like to play for us and pulled out his hand drum. I had seen one before. A good friend from our soaring club has one and they are an amazing instrument.
Jan quickly filled the aft cockpit of Oh! with a sound that is best described as a rhythmic blend of tubular bells, xylophone and gong that resonates right through you. Jan played while we were all mesmerized by the tones and beat he could create. The air was warm and still, the moon was rising, the stars were out, the cockpit was filled with our new friends, great food, fine wine and unforgettable music….that all started 10 days before with, “Hi, we are Diane and Rod”.
This is the magic of the cruising lifestyle we want to share. It is not about the biggest, prettiest, or fastest boat, or even the sailing. It is about the daily flow of great memories, wonderful people we meet and the unforgettable experiences we all share.